| Introduction to NW Oregon Rock Climbing | ||
|---|---|---|
Portland Rock Climbs
provides beta for popular rock climbing crags around Portland and northwest Oregon,
as well as the opportunity for you to acquire Portland Rock Climbs guide book.
This overview on the nature of rock climbing is designed to help you focus on beneficial solutions with emphasis on good economic vitality for our region.
Seven unique climbing crags enhance the beauty and enjoyment of living in this part of Oregon by providing you with a great outdoor based opportunity to be involved in this great region. The following links provide general overview information on each rock climbing cliff, driving directions, and a road & trail diagram to help guide you quickly to the crag. The seven popular rock climbing cliffs are: Broughton Bluff, Rocky Butte Quarry, Carver Bridge Cliff, Madrone Wall, Ozone Wall, and Beacon Rock. Take a drive to these local crags and explore some of the unique rock climbing opportunities. |
||
| Select Guidebook and Map Titles | Purchase | |
| Portland Rock Climbs 4th edition | »» PRC | |
| Beacon Rock Topographical Climbers Reference Map - South Face Aspect | »» Beacon Rock Map | |
| Gorge Classic Climbs 1st edition | »» GCC | |
| A Climbing Guide to Oregon - by Nick Dodge (used copies) | »» CGO | |
Get out of that winter rut, the snow is gone, the season is in, opening day bouldering at Larch Mtn Boulders has begun.
Things are a changin' fast in Portland this year for bouldering. No need to make repeat dry runs to damp, slippery, in-town sites.
Now you can find virtual year-round bouldering in a nice combo at several local hot spots - Larch, Cascade, and BOG Boulders (Bridge of the gods boulders).
All are local, fast to get to, and offer plenty of flavor that sure beats a repeat trip to old haunts.
Larch Mtn Boulders are good from late April thru October, and even into December on dry days if the wind is not too stiff. Yeow!
Then shift over to Cascade Boulders and spend all winter (on dry days) workin' the circuit over there on an endless string of tricky andesite beasts, some as tall as 16'.
So, don't hold back, when sunshine and clear sailing skies beckon. Check out Tymun's blog for the latest movement.
Do your part: If you boulder here (or within a 100+ mile radius of Portland) and establish new bouldering lines, take the time and contact Tymun at his Bouldering Blog.
He is seeking all kinds of bouldering beta, so he can continue to build an extensive regional bouldering data list on these places and other sites.
Tymun came to me with this idea, so that you can help him in return to strengthen his bouldering beta database.
Join the effort now, and get in touch with reality.
Browse our Bouldering web page Bouldering for more details.
Browse our Madrone web page Madrone Wall for more details.
Stay informed! Attend the meetings! Be part of the process!

Turkey Monster in the Menagerie
An ascent of Turkey Monster in the Menagerie Wilderness.
A great bit of beta with a great selection of photos that really capture the essence of a wild ascent on this unusual pillar east of Sweet Home, Oregon.
The next time you are planning a mid-summer adventure check out the Menagerie Wilderness.
Click »»
Turkey Monster
Exploring and scrambling has been a favorable pursuit in Northwest Oregon since before the turn of the 20th century.
In the Columbia River Gorge interest for exploration expanded, in part, because of the building of the Columbia Highway, which began in 1913.
Recreational values of northwest Oregon have continued to become focused and energized ever since those early years.
From the early 1950s onward rock climbers have found great interest in the local crags such as Broughton and Rocky Butte.
As the rock climbing equipment improved, and as lead climbers broke into new degrees above the 5.9 level, these favorite local crags became great learning grounds for everyone to practice the sport of climbing.
St. Peter's Dome
Would anyone ever touch the summit of the St. Peter's Dome massif after Wayne's rope-solo? Yes, indeed!
Check out this vivid April 26th, 2008 ascent of the vertical cobblestone choss monster of the Columbia Gorge.
Click »»
St. Peter's Dome
Several local crags have structured governing policy concerning the activity of rock climbing. The land owners and/or governing agencies who oversee these areas strive to bring a degree of beneficial long term multi-purpose use to the site under their care.
These three areas are:
Carver Bridge Cliff,Privately owned crag with limited access granted to Carver Climbing Club members for $8.
Madrone Wall,Closed at present, but park development through Clackamas County is advancing.
and Beacon Rock.This popular climbing crag has a seasonal Peregrine Falcon closure on the south face aspect from mid-Jan to mid-July.
Browse the link to each section for specific access information and other regulatory guidelines.
Our climbing crags do have certain objective dangers, and climbers should take precautionary measure against exposure to Poison Oak or rock fall.
Be safety conscious and use a helmet while climbing, especially at Beacon Rock. Wearing long pants will help to protect against encounters with poison oak. Learn to recognize the 3-leaf cluster of this very prevalent reddish foliage.
Note:»»
The Iron Mountain Crag in Lake Oswego is NOT open to rock climbing. You risk being issued a trespassing citation by the Lake Oswego city police for being on railroad property.
Do not climb at that crag.
Rock climbers in northwest Oregon generally seek the local crags from May to September. During this portion of the year mild Pacific marine air often mixes with inland Great Basin hot weather to bring a climber friendly cycle that keeps Northwest Oregon quite comfortable.
- Summer month temperatures average about 70°F to 80°F with occasional short peaks of hot sunny days in July and August in the 90°F to 95°F range. Check the forecast link NOAAWestern US.
- Winter Pacific marine air brings a consistent series of rain showers, starting in late October through March. Cold winter rainy days offer temperatures that average in the 35°F to 50°F range.
- Virtual year-round rock climbing is readily available at Broughton Bluff and eventually the Madrone Wall. Both offer a southwesterly orientation toward the winter sunshine. With a little sunshine each of these crags will quickly dry out, and both crags provide a respite from the notorious howling east winds of the Columbia River Gorge.
- On Mt Hood is a biography of Oregon's Perilous Peak written by Jon Bell. A book about anything and everything related to the mountain: news, conditions, trails, campsites, wines, accidents, triumphs, stories, connections, and much, much more.
- Excellent alternative Fall and Spring climbing sites worth visiting to escape from the rainy west side weather is the ever popular central Oregon climbing destination called Smith Rock. When western Oregon rains are simply too much, make a fast road trip over the mountains to the semi-arid often sunny Smith Rock climbing paradise.
- For those who like sustained vertical columnar basalt crack climbing then check out Jeff Wenger's website for Trout Creek. Trout Creek has become one of the great quality new additions to the central Oregon climbing tour. Both Smith Rock and Trout Creek are a mere 3-hour drive from Portland.
This overview on the nature of rock climbing is designed to help you focus on beneficial solutions with emphasis on good economic vitality for our region.
Seven unique climbing crags enhance the beauty and enjoyment of living in this part of Oregon by providing you with a great outdoor based opportunity to be involved in this great region.