Welcome to Trout Creek, Oregon’s answer to desert crack climbing. Trout Creek is not a large area but the concentration of high quality natural lines is immense and the setting alone is well worth the hike. Positioned high above the Deschutes River the crag provides a sweeping panorama of the Central Oregon landscape and gorge framed viewing of Mt. Jefferson.
Trout Creek is characterized by boulder hopping approaches to exceptionally clean inside corners and stem boxes. The protection is generally bomber and very straightforward. A double to triple set of cams works fine for many of the routes but some of the most sustained require five or more pieces of the same size for adequate protection. Similar in nature to Bill’s Columns above Hwy 26 in Warm Springs, the climbing is on columnar basalt with a golden, high friction layer appearing on the sunnier aspects. The rock tends to be quite abrasive and most climbers tape their hands, especially for the wider cracks.
A seasonal raptor nesting habitat closure exists, so check the U.S. Forest Service website first, or the Trout Creek web blog to determine the closure dates before travelling there.
Directions:
Drive to the tiny town of Gateway, Oregon (north of Madras). From there take Clemens Drive all the way to the Trout Creek Campground; the last few miles of the drive is on a dirt road that is sometimes in disrepair. Park at the Day Use Area at the SW (upstream) end of the campground and walk upstream to access the river road past a cattle guard. There are a couple different approaches off the river road; the main trail approach leading to the crag bucket is described here. Walk 20-25 minutes upstream and cross a second cattle guard. Continue two hundred yards along the river road to the first weakness in the hillside. Leave the road here and follow the trail up the short rise to the left. The bulk of the climbing at Trout Creek will be clearly in view. Follow the trail another 20 minutes or so to the Main Wall. The crag copy of the guide will be at the main staging area, roughly in line with the obvious hand crack, Gold Rush.
To acquire a digital booklet:
For a complete guide to this site attain the digital booklet at Rakkup.com, and for the 2010 year PDF version (which is concise with all the known routes up till 2010): Scribd.com
NW Oregon Rock has only the Introduction and Directions listed for Trout Creek wall.
Services: Gas for your vehicle is available in Madras, Oregon which is about 18 miles drive.
Amenities: Madras is less developed than Redmond, yet has several grocery stores (Safeway at north end), a minor string of fast-food facilities (such as DQ) and restaurants, and evening entertainment bars.
Camping: The Trout Creek trailhead also conveniently has a campground (fee site) so no need to drive any further, unless you are motel inclined.
Administrative Agency: The climbing is on BLM administered land with a seasonal raptor closure.
Seasonal Factors: The best climbing months are (surprisingly) fall, winter and spring, before the heat of summer picks up (minus the raptor closure timeframe).
Climbing Precautions: Dancing amongst the cordwood stacked basalt columns scattered along the base of the wall is fairly tricky (veterans excepted), and some risk exists due to the deep pits between each block. Kids and dogs should be cautioned.
Road access conditions: A mile past the small community of Gateway, the road turns to gravel and descends steeply down into the canyon. Though washboarded heavily in spots most vehicles can drive this road.
Additional Notes: Most of the rock climbing is 5.10- and higher in grade.
3 photos: courtesy Jeff Wenger