Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | ||
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Summary | Ozone Wall | Rural area, crag has year-round access, though extreme winds and cold temperatures tend to keep most climbers away in the winter months. | South-facing crag with tree filtered sunshine all day. | Paved road access with roadside pullouts along Washington State Route 14. The crag is about 20-minutes drive from I-205 bridge on WA state route 14. | A brief gradually descending path (2-minute) lands you quickly at either the west or east end of the wall. | Experienced climber's, but possible for virtual entry level climber if they can adjust to vertical climbing at moderate grades. With the addition of the Far Side and Stratosphere Walls combined together (30, 80, & 70 routes) this triple-locale as a whole offers both quantity and diversity in a convenient location for organized instructional guided climbing. | Tallest route at approximately 100' with various shorter routes from 50' to 90' (a fairly common height). Most routes are fairly steep or vertical, offering some crimps, edges or ledges. The Mordor Wall is fairly overhung creating a nice string of 5.11-5.12 routes. | Vertical cliffband of andesite rock. Good quality rock. | Elevation is 550' at the base of wall and 700'+/- at the west parking spot. | |
Details | May through October is best (plus a few nice sunny days in the winter. Some vertical and overhung routes stay reasonably dry much of the year. | Sport leads on numerous routes. Sport/trad mixed on many routes. When combined with the Far Side crag (and Stratosphere) this entire series of walls offer nearly 170+ climbing routes. | Many leads are 50-100' long. A few routes offer short multi-pitch leading. | Quick-draws, and a single rack of gear (nuts and cams). Some routes have specialized gear needs (see book). | About 80 rock climbs. Range from 5.6 to 5.12c, greatest concentration is 5.9 (18 routes) and 5.10a. Broad variety from 5.8 to 5.10c. | Its wise to not stand or belay directly under the leader (some times minor friable flakes break off). | Poison oak exists off-trail and near the top of the crag. Strong east wind in winter may limit user interest in the winter season. | Washington DOT managed land; no specific rules at this time. | PRC |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | ||
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Summary | Farside Crag | Rural area, crag has year-round access, though extreme winds and cold temperatures tend to keep most climbers away in the winter months. | South-facing crag with tree filtered sunshine all day. | Paved road access and road shoulder gravel pullout alongside the highway. | The path is narrow climbers path, and takes about 4 minutes to descend down the path to the base of the wall. | Intermediate to expert level of experience. | Height of crag is generally 80'-90' max with some shorter routes. The rock bluff is heavily fractured with angular seams, cracks and corners, lending to its technical leading difficulties. | Andesitic rock with variable qualities, angular, blocky in nature, lending to easy plant regrowth on certain portions of the wall. | The elevation is about 815' at the roadside and about 650' at the base of the wall. | |
Details | May through October is best (plus a few nice sunny days in the winter. Some vertical and overhung routes stay reasonably dry much of the year. | Mostly traditional lead routes (with some fixed gear), some of which are quite technical in terms of subtle gear placements. | Most leads are 40-80' long. | Rack of gear (nuts and cams), and occasional specialized gear (see book). | About 80 rock climbs, ranging from 5.4 to 5.11b, with the greatest concentration from 5.8 to 5.10+ (and 5.8 offering the most routes in a single grade at 11 each). | Know how to place tricky protection. Present low level user interest keeps the crag sort of like a nice antique, holding unique climbing characteristics, but with sharper error margins. Perhaps with minor improvements the crags utilitarian cycle-through value would increase substantially. | Poison oak exists off-trail and near the top of the crag. Strong east wind in winter may limit user interest in the winter season. | Washington DOT managed land; no specific rules at this time. | MtnProject |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | ||
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Summary | Beacon Rock | Rural area locale, in heart of the Columbia Gorge. | The primary aspect of this site is its south face with full sunshine (AM-PM) all day. The northwest section offers diverse climbing opportunities in a filtered sunshine grove of trees. | Paved road access to Washington state park maintained parking area. About 29 miles from I-205 freeway bridge on WA state route 14 (about 35-minutes drive). | A nice narrow 1/8 mile trail descends down along the east side of Beacon Rock to its south face aspect. | Intermediate to expert level of leading experience is wise. | Beacon is an 848' high volcanic andesite monolith with a plethora of multi-pitch lead climbing opportunities. Many routes are plum vertical (south face), some routes near the SE Face route are less than vertical, and you can find some slabby and vertical routes on the northwest section of the monolith. Many routes are long leads ranging up to 165' leads, while some leads are shorter (70'-100'). Virtually all routes merge in with other climbs en route to the top. | Andesite rock, with steep vertical columnar dihedrals on the south face, with some large edges and ledges at various points where columns break. The SE Face portion of the wall yields a greater degree of slabby multi-pitch rock climbs. The andesite rock has considerable quartz friction surficial grit and numerous subtle crimp nuances. | The elevation is 288' at the car and approximately 88' at base of the south face. | |
Details | A 6-month open climbing season (approx mid-July to January) for the south face aspect. The northwest section is pleasantly enjoyable during the summer and fall seasons. Bird nesting closure keeps the south face off limits for the other 6-months. But year-round access is feasible on the northwest aspect. Strong winds and cold temperatures tend to keep most climbers away from venturing here in winter. | Primarily traditional lead climbing, some mixed gear/bolt routes. | Multi-pitch leads for the majority of rock climbs. Some ground level routes can be done as single pitch leads with one rope (50-100'). | Rack of gear (nuts and cams), sometimes 2-3 duplicates of certain pro, and sometimes cams up to 6”+. | There are 130+ routes on the south face, and 20+ routes on the northwest section. The full ratings spectrum ranges from 5.6 to 5.12c, yet is concentrated heavier in the 5.9 to 5.11b range, and the leader of the pack is 5.10c (19 routes). The most trafficked rating though is 5.6 (because of the SE Face route). | Rockfall is a problem (windy), and wearing a helmet is recommended. Poison oak exists along the base of the entire cliff (minimal at base of each route). | Poison oak, and rockfall. Strong wind days can be a nuisance and a risk when it disturbs pebbles from various ledges. | Managed by Washington State Parks. Bird nesting closure exists for 6-months of the year. See book for other regulations. See the state park web links for more info. Parking fees are required to use this state park. | PRC |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
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Summary | Rooster Rock | Countryside locale, with full sunshine (AM-PM) all day. Low elevation site in Columbia Gorge. Year-round access, though extreme winds and cold temperatures tend to keep most climbers away in the winter months. | A prominent pinnacle that is usually climbed on its south face. | Paved road access to an Oregon state park (Rooster Rock state park). | A path leads around the pond, then walk along the freeway shoulder till you locate a short path weaving uphill away from the freeway to the base of the south face. Approximately 8 miles east of Troutdale. Anticipate 10 minutes (2000' distance) walking time to reach the base of the standard route from the parking area. | Virtual basic beginner to expert skill level (depending on your route of choice). | The standard south face route is very steep, but not totally vertical. That route is about 160' in length. | Basalt rock pinnacle formation with various sized chunky cobblestone blocks. | Approximately 240' elevation at the summit, and 45' at the parking area. |
Details | From May through October during the drier seasons, though the pinnacle can be climbable any time of the year if there is an extended dry spell. | Traditional gear lead on a tall pinnacle. | About 140' lead on the south face route. | Rack of gear (stoppers and cams). | One primary popular route (south face is 5.4). Some other seldom climbed odd routes exist on other sides of pinnacle. | Very minor loose or hollow rock. It's wise to wear a helmet. | Yellowjackets may be a nuisance in the fall season. Minor poison oak exists along the climbers path. | Oregon state park day use area with fee-based parking. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
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Summary | Rat Cave | Countryside locale, Low altitude setting in Columbia Gorge with year-round access. | North facing aspect, shaded all day, in a lightly forested zone. | Paved road access with a large gravel pullout at the site. | A brief dirt path cuts steeply uphill then traverses west to the overhung alcove. | Expert leading level. | Overhanging on all routes, and substantially more so on a few routes that march directly out of the cave. Longer routes range up to 50'-60' tall. The deepest portion of the cave just directly out for about 30'. | Blocky cobblestone basalt in a substantially overhung cave-like alcove. | About 50' elevation at the parking spot, and 90' at the cave. |
Details | September through January is best. The bluff can see more water seeps from February through April which limits climbability. Summer can be muggy though late evenings are feasible. | All sport climbing in the upper spectrum. | Range from 40-70' length. | Quick-draws only. | About 22 routes from 5.11d to 5.14a. | Best to not belay directly under the lead climber (some friable rock). | The cobble features are tricky to visually learn on-site, so its sometimes easier to learn a route by another who is familiar with the route. | USFS managed land. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
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Summary | Jimmy Cliff | Countryside locale, mid-altitude forest/talus zone, and 6-month access (May-October). | South facing aspect, AM-PM sun, talus slope below crag. | Paved road (first 2 miles), then maintained gravel road for 3.1 miles more (viable for most vehicles). | The walk is on a reasonable narrow path trending horizontally for ¼ mile to crag. Anticipate 1 hour drive from Portland, and 5 minutes walk. | Intermediate to expert. | Routes are mostly 100' or less (1-2 multi-pitch routes) on steep slightly less than vertical crag. | Andesite rock, with lichen, some moss, and friable rock. | At 2800' elevation. |
Details | Spring to Fall season (May-October). Mid summer may be a bit too hot. | Traditional gear crack routes. | Some single pitch leads (100'). And some multi-pitch leads. | Pro that includes nuts and cams. | About 10 routes, 5.7 to 5.10. | Friable rock, and a helmet is recommended. | Hornets in late season, and scorpions under various rocks. | USFS managed area. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
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Summary | Rock Creek Crag | Countryside locale, mid-altitude forested environment, with seasonal access. | West facing, full PM sunshine till late afternoon. | Good Skamania County maintained gravel road to site. Anticipate 1.25 hours drive from Portland. | Path is narrow and steep and exposed along the cliff-base (a 10 minutes uphill hike). | Intermediate to expert. | About 70' max, and mostly vertical, to slightly less than vertical cliff face. | Andesite rock, and good friction quality, on mostly sound rock. | Site is at the 1400' elevation. |
Details | From May through October. Anytime of day. | Some pure sport routes. And some sport/trad mix at crag. | About 70' max. | Rack of pro (nuts and cams), and quick-draws. | About 25 routes, 5.8 to 5.12, enough variety for all levels of climber. | Not a place for dogs, or children. Vertical bluff directly below this crag and a short steep dirt slope going over it. | If you drop something (waterbottle?) and it rolls downhill, its gone. | none. | PRC-NWOR |