Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | French's Dome | Countryside locale in a forested setting located a few miles north of the small community of Welches. | A rounded dome of rock tucked in a tall fir tree forest. Mixed sunshine and shade throughout the day. | Paved road access. | A short trail (1 minute walk). | Beginner to expert. | 80' on the short west side. About 160' on the long side (from the summit to the east base). | Olivine basalt from an old volcanic neck core. The face climbing consists of a plethora of small crimps and edges of various sizes. The easier the route the bigger the edges and steps. The overall variety tend to make this site quite popular, though the limited number of routes induces congestion on certain weekend days. | .... |
Details | Climbing is viable from May through October (depending on snow and rain). Spring rains tend to keep the site a bit damp in early season. | Steep sport climbing on a rounded dome. Easier routes are slightly less than vertical and the hard core routes are usually slightly overhung. | Most routes are single pitch (50-70') leads. Most routes have an independent belay anchor to rap from. | Just a set of quick-draws (avoid Yellow Brick Road until it gets fully bolted). | About 24 routes, with ratings that range from 5.6 to 5.13-. | Some rock holds are slightly hollow, and do occasionally break off. | Mosquitoes in early season. | Northwest Forest Pass required. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Salmon River Slab | Countryside locale in a forested setting next to a paved road with a nice swimming hole just across the road. Easy and quick access from town. | A short west-facing roadside bluff that receives sunshine for a few brief hours in the early afternoon. | Paved road access a few miles south of Welches, Oregon. | Zero | Beginner to moderate level skill. | The bluff is approximately 40' tall, and is less than vertical (approximately 80°). The outcrop exist mainly because it was part of a roadcut when the road was built here. | Basaltic rock, with occasional flaky holds. | 1500' elevation. |
Details | Viable for climbing from May through October, excluding heavy rainstorm days. The rock may have water seeps early in the season. | Sport face climbing on slightly flaky rock. | About 40'. | Just a set of quick-draws. | Five basic routes, ranging from 5.5 to 5.9. | Some of the flaky rock hand edges may occasionally break off. | Mosquitoes in early season. | Northwest Forest Pass is required for this corridor. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Hunchback Wall | Rural locale, forested environs near the community of Welches, with a 25-minute uphill approach path to reach the crag. | A west-facing 2-tiered vertical rock cliff scarp surrounded by a tall Douglas fir forest with open downhill sweeping views of the forest undergrowth. Minimal sunshine for perhaps 1 hour in mid-day, otherwise a tree shaded crag. | Paved road access to the pullout spot. | A powerful 25-minute uphill hike on a narrow path. | Intermediate to expert level. | The cliff is 2-tiered, the lower tier being 100' tall, and in two formations split by a wide deep ravine. The routes are nearly vertical, and often have bulges, roofs, or overhangs to surmount. | Andesite rock with numerous thin crimps and edges. | 3500' elevation. |
Details | Varies per year. Commonly from mid-April through October, but each year offers some days later in November which are suitable for cragging here in cool temperatures. In the rare snowless year the crag may be accessible for nearly 10-months. | Primarily sport, some trad, and some mixed trad-sport. | Generally 90' leads, some a bit shorter. | Quick-draws, a set of cams and stoppers, and if so inclined wider pro beyond 3”. | Approximately 30 routes, ranging from 5.7 through 5.13-. The greatest concentrations is 5.11 and is well suited for expert level climbers. | Stay off the upper cliff tier, otherwise you risk knocking rocks down on the climbers below. You might break a sweat hiking up the hill to the crag. | Perhaps mosquitoes in early season. | US Forest Service managed land. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Enola (Swinery) | Countryside locale, tucked in a lightly forested cluster of trees (maple and fir) with a broad talus field below the scarp. Close to primary highway corridor and a mere 1 hour drive from Gresham. | A west-facing cliff scarp overlooking the tiny community of Rhododendron. Receives filtered sunshine in the afternoon hours. | Short 1.5 mile gravel road (with big berms) that is feasible by most vehicles with high enough ground clearance. Convenient parking immediately above the crag. | A 3-5 minute walk downhill to the wall on a very narrow path. | Intermediate to expert. | Generally steep vertical andesite rock, with some overhangs, roofs, and bulges. | Andesite rock with plenty of crimps and edges. Surface grit is substantial which makes for quality friction and smears. | 3000' elevation at the crag. |
Details | Commonly accessible from May through October, but expect some reasonable days even in November. | Numerous sport routes. Plenty of trad gear leads. And mixed sport-trad partially bolted routes. | All are single pitch leads. Most routes range from 40' to 100' in length. | Quick-draws, and a set of cams and stoppers. | About 50 routes, but additional future routes will bump it up to the 60+/- range. | The descent path is steep and skinny in spots. | Perhaps mosquitoes in early season. | US Forest Service managed land. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Kiwanis Crag | Countryside locale. Convenient location on a secondary road, easy to drive past, but very easy to access. | North-facing aspect, shaded year-round, tucked in a minor cluster of trees. | Paved secondary road access, and a few yards from the road. | Zero | Beginner to intermediate. | Most of the routes are on a cliff face that leans at you perhaps 2° which increases the technicality of the routes. The remainder of the routes are on moderate angled terrain. | Andesite rock with smooth surface grit. Creases and breaks in the rock surface yield crimps and edges, but the moss growth can obscure some routes. | 3000' elevation. |
Details | Commonly viable from May through October. Due to its north-facing aspect when the dew is heavy in early or late season it may limit climb-ability. | Sport climbing and top-rope climbing. | Quite short, about 35-40' tall max. | A brief set of quick-draws. | About a dozen routes, ranging from 5.8 to 5.10+. | ... | Perhaps mosquitoes in early season. | None. USFS managed land. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Mosquito Butte | Countryside locale. Fairly convenient and within a few miles of Government Camp near Trillium Lake. | The commonly climbed area is a west-facing short cliff scarp tucked in a lightly forested environs near a popular campground. | Paved secondary road access to a parking spot near the site. | The meandering approach wanders through the forest and is unmarked, but with a bit of sense of bearing and a GPS you can reach the site quickly enough. | Beginner to Intermediate. | Height of bluff is about 40' max, and some routes are a bit shorter. The angle is generally slightly less than vertical, except on the hardest routes which may have slight bulges to surmount. | Well-eroded basaltic outcrop with deeply cut grooves, corners, and very gritty surficial texture. The rough grit surface makes friction easy. | 3700' elevation. |
Details | From May through October. | Sport climbing, and a few mixed sport-trad, and 2 crack routes. | About 40' max, some are shorter. | A set of quick-draws, and a minor rack of gear (cams and stoppers) if you plan to do one of the mixed routes. | About 20 short routes. The ratings ranging from 5.4 through 5.11, with the greatest concentration in the lower spectrum. | Be cautious if setting up top-ropes from above because the belay anchors are usually on the outer steep aspect of the cliff face. | Mosquitoes in early season. | US Forest Service managed land. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Illumination Rock | Backcountry locale. Spire located on the upper reaches of Mt Hood well above timberline. | All day full sunshine and crazy alpine rock routes on all sides. | Paved road to the Timberline Lodge facility. | Open treeless terrain from the lodge to the spire. Use open gravel slopes on either side of the ski area. A 2.7 mile hike (one way) from the lodge to the rock spire. | Intermediate to expert. | About 400' long on the south face. Angled cracks and slabs, with large edges and ledges to stand and belay on. | Andesite, but exfoliating. A fairly serious adventure requiring diligence while climbing. Lacks quality because spire is well-fractured. | 9530' elevation at the summit. It's 9140' elevation at the base of South Chamber amphitheater. |
Details | Depends on your goal (winter season yields varied rime ice climbing). Summer months (July-Aug) are generally best for alpine warm weather conditions. | Traditional gear leads, technical difficulties with enhanced risk options. | Roughly 400-500'+/-. All are multi-pitch routes. | General rack of gear (cams and stoppers) but usually an alpine rack. Pro sizes up to 4" is beneficial. Pitons may be useful. | About 12 routes, ratings from 5.5 to 5.10-, and for winter rime ice climbing alpine ice or water ice WI/AI 3-4. | Helmet use recommended. Considerable loose rock. This spire is exfoliating a lot so precautionary measures need to be taken while climbing on it. | Sunburn in summer, etc. | Wilderness permit attained at the Registry booth at the day-use lodge. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Razorblade | Backcountry locale. Isolated rock spire on the west slope of Mt Hood above tree line. | All day full sunshine (especially if climbing on the south side). Alpine rock routes. | Paved road to within 1/2 mile of the Top Spur trailhead. | Hiking for 3.3 miles total one way. The first 2 hours are on the Round-the-Mtn Trail, then off trail following a creek system (some tricky stream jumping), then up a steep dirt slope to the south base of the spire. | Intermediate to expert. | South face aspect is 200' tall, with an angle slightly less than vertical (perhaps 80°) and numerous edges and ledges. | Andesitic rock, some minor hollow or detached blocks, but most of the routes are reasonable. Some minor moss and brush on various parts of the south face aspect. | 5765' elevation on the summit. |
Details | Summer months generally from July-October. | Traditional gear leads, technical difficulties with enhanced risk options. | About 200' in length on the south face routes. | Take a selective alpine trad rack of gear (cams and stopper to 3"). Pitons are useful. | About 6 rock routes, ranging from 5.9 to 5.10+, plus a north face nailing climb. All leads are multi-pitch. The west buttress is the classic on this spire. | Helmet use recommended. North slope talus field has slid substantially, so any further route exploration of the north aspect will be difficult. | Mosquitoes in summer. Long approach time (3 hours). | In the Mt Hood wilderness, so a user permit is needed to travel in the area. | PRC-NWOR |