Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Pete's Pile | Countryside setting near a mainline paved road, about 20 minutes from Hood River, Oregon. | A west-facing aspect columnar andesite crag with afternoon sunshine with a lightly forested pine tree setting. Can be quite warm on mid-summer afternoons. | Excellent paved primary road access to parking site. | A reasonable path that angles gently uphill for 5 minutes to the crag base. | Intermediate to expert. | The cliff is slightly less than vertical (about 85°) with some bulges and overhanging lips to surmount on the stouter climbs. | Basaltic-andesitic rock cliff formation with prominent columnar jointing (cracks) and numerous small edges and crimps. When a route lands at a column top it is often flat or sloped which makes a nice belay point. | At the 3400' elevation. |
Details | From early-May through October, including certain days before and beyond this if the weather is conducive and warm enough. | Mixed traditional gear lead climbs (with minor fixed gear on certain routes). | Single pitch (70-80')and Multi-pitch routes (165-200'). | Cams, stoppers, quick-draws, etc. | A minimum or 30 routes, though the site has plenty of room for more future development options. | A helmet is suggested, though most locals do not use one. | Perhaps some mosquitoes in early season. | On US Forest Service managed land. Some limitations exist on guided use at this site (see FS regs). Free roadside parking. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Klinger Springs | Countryside setting near a mainline paved road, about 20 minutes from Hood River, Oregon. This is a northern extension of the same cliff band that Pete's Pile is located upon. | Similar factors to Pete's Pile. A west-facing aspect, afternoon sunshine, lightly forested pine tree setting, and can be quite warm on mid-summer afternoons. | Excellent paved primary road access to parking site. | A steep narrow path trends uphill to the site (about 15 minute hike). | Intermediate to expert. | Height about 200' tall. The cliff is slightly less than vertical (about 85°) with some bulges and overhanging lips to surmount on the stouter climbs. | Basaltic-andesitic rock cliff formation with prominent columnar jointing (cracks) and numerous small edges and crimps. | At the 3400' elevation. |
Details | From early-May through October, including certain days before and beyond this if the weather is conducive and warm enough. | Steep mixed trad-sport lead climbs. This site is a mirror of Pete's Pile, but offers a much greater selection of fixed routes. This ideal is conducive to increasing the future viability of rock climbing in this region, and also effectively maximizes a limited resource. | Single pitch (70-90'), and some multi-pitch routes (about 180' total length). | Cams, stoppers, quick-draws, etc. | Roughly 60 routes, but will eventually yield perhaps 100+/- routes when crag is fully tapped. | .... | Perhaps mosquitoes in early season. | On US Forest Service managed land. Some limitations exist on guided use at this site (see FS regs). Free roadside parking. | Mtn Project |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Bulo Point | Backcountry setting alongside a rough dirt dead-end road, about 45 minutes from Hood River, Oregon. Fairly accessible for most vehicles with good ground clearance (big berms). | A U-shaped east-facing outcrop that overlooks the upper Fifteen-mile Creek watershed, surrounded in a forest of pine trees. | Paved secondary roads gain quick access to region, then a 1.2 mile long rough dirt road (big berms) takes you the final leg to the parking spot at the crag. | A brief one-minute walk to the crag. | Beginner to intermediate. | The tallest part of the bluff is about 70' high (Jetstream route), but most routes are shorter (40' roughly) and start on various landings or ledge platforms at different levels at the crag. | A well-eroded outcrop rock formation, basaltic in nature, weathering has given it a very gritty surface texture that is nice for face climbing, but not so appealing for jamming your hands into cracks. | 4750' elevation |
Details | Generally mid-May through October, though a late spring snow may effect access. | Mostly sport climbing, but some odd flared crack climbs do exist. | From 40-70' length. | Quick-draws, and if so inclined a brief rack of gear such as cams and stoppers for the cracks. | Approximately 30 routes, with a few additional top-ropes on various outcrops. Ratings range from 5.6 to 5.11+ primarily concentrated in the low-mid range enjoyable for beginner to moderate climbers. | .... | Mosquitoes in early season. | On US Forest Service managed land, and no permits needed. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Area 51 | Countryside setting along a paved road, and about 1 hour drive from The Dalles (or Hood River). | The bluff is a U-shaped south-facing large outcrop overlooking the Jordan Creek watershed, surrounded in a forest of pine trees. | Paved secondary roads to the parking site. | A well established narrow path travels horizontally for 5-minutes to the crag. | Intermediate to expert level. | About 100' tall cliff scarp. | A well-eroded basaltic-andesitic outcrop rock formation with a very gritty surface texture that offers good friction and smears (but less ideal for bare hand jamming in cracks). | About 4000' elevation. |
Details | Usually from early May through October, including some days into November. | Mostly sport climbing, or mixed sport-trad routes (gear placements tend to be infrequent on a mostly bolted route). | Most routes are 90' or less in height. Vertical rock face with some bulges and overhangs. | A set of quick-draws and a minor set of cams and stoppers. | About 70 routes, at a generally well developed crag. Minimal future opportunities. Ratings range from 5.8 to 5.12+ with a concentration in the 5.10-5.11 range. | Some minor crumbly pebbles on certain roues, so a helmet is advised. | Mosquitoes in early season generally in the evening hours. | On US Forest Service managed land; no special permits needed at this site. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Newton Pinnacle | Countryside locale. Situated near the Hood River Meadows Ski Area on a lightly forested ridge crest, with convenient primary roads nearby. | This is a northwest-facing slightly overhung face, part of a prominent pinnacle formation. The rock face is a crisp sliced (like a tomato cut in half) chunk of stone (on northwest side) with various incut surface nuances. | Paved highway (and paved secondary road) access to the parking spot. | Well-graded trails partway uphill, then short but steep off-trail uphill grunt to reach the site. Perhaps 30-45 minutes hike. | Intermediate skill level and beyond. | Height is 80' or less for most routes. Angle of main NW aspect leans at you by about 2° which tends to make the steep routes quite pumpy to send. | A basaltic-andesitic pinnacle formation. Generally fun juggy slightly overhung climbing on mostly sound rock. Occasional hollow or wedged blocks up near top of a route or two. | About 5500' elevation. |
Details | Generally from mid-May through October. Very weather dependent. | Mixed sport-trad lead climbing, and some top-rope climbing. | About 40-60' long. One west prow route is a bit longer. | Cams, stoppers, quick-draws, and ability to set up a belay station on some routes. | Less than a dozen, ranging from 5.7 through 5.11-. | Be ware of some of wedged blocks on certain routes and some loose debris at the top of some routes. Setting up various belays requires diligence and ability to 4th class scramble up onto the top of the pinnacle. | Mosquitoes in early season. | On US Forest Service managed land. If you park at the trailhead you will need the Northwest Forest Pass (there are other spots nearby where you can park to avoid this). | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | Lamberson Butte | Backcountry alpine environment, backcountry, isolated but near a hiking trail, about 2.5 miles from the trailhead. | A west-facing series of walls and outcrop formations on a steep hillside. A moderate alpine altitude setting with minimal pine tree forests, but mostly open sunshine dirt and rock slopes. | Paved primary highway (and short paved secondary road) access to the parking spot. | Popular hiking trail for 2.5 miles gets you near to the site, then a brief 200'-1000' uphill grunt to reach the base of various routes. | Intermediate to expert. | Generally less than vertical (about 80° or less), the stouter lines being the steepest. The easier climbs are often a series of cracks, then a ledge, and more climbing to another ledge. | Andesitic in type, well-weathered from the winter elements scouring the rock surface. The surficial grit is good for friction and smears. Most routes tend to follow some form of crack or seam feature (or corner system) on a steep face. Some aspects have prominent crack and columnar jointing, while other aspects are blocky or fairly flat surfaced with small thin seams or cracks. | Approximately 5500' elevation. |
Details | Generally July through October, though certain days in early season may have excess snow still on trails, and cold temps in late season may hinder interest. | Mixed trad gear leads (partially fixed routes) with technical gear challenges. | Single pitch (80-160' leads), and some multi-pitch leads (200-250' long). | Cams, stoppers, quick-draws, helmet, and a variety of fixed gear. | Several dozen routes exist, ranging from 5.6 through 5.11-. | A helmet is recommended as there is some loose debris on certain routes. | Mosquitoes in early season. | On US Forest Service managed land. Trailhead permit required. | PRC-NWOR |
Crag Name | Location | Orientation | Road Type | Trail Approach | Skill Level | Crag Height | Rock Type | Site Elevation | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Summary | TLC | Countryside setting about 1 hour drive from The Dalles. | The bluff is a north-facing 2.25 mile long series of mini-outcrops, overlooking the Fifteen-mile creek watershed drainage. Its north-facing aspect keeps the crag cooler. | Mostly paved road from The Dalles, then all gravel north from the cattleguard where it meets with Jordan Road. | About 10 minutes walk downhill from parking spot on narrow foot path to reach the east end. Expect 20+ minutes to reach the west end of the developed portions of the crag. | Intermediate to expert. | About 100' (for short outcrops), but some sections of cliff range up to 200' tall. | Andesitic rock with some gas pockets. Notable surface texture is gritty (makes easy smearing and friction). Aspects of cliff are mostly vertical. | At 3000' elevation. | |
Details | Best from May through October, but if its a minimal snow year the access season would be broadened. | Sport climbing environment for virtual all routes. Some crack climb leads do exist, but not many at this time. | Short routes (40-90') while some long routes may reach up to 150'. | QD's for the vast majority of routes. | Roughly 200 routes to date (5-2017), but the crag continues to be expanded further west each year. | Most routes range from 5.10b to 5.14-. Core route emphasis from 5.11a to 5.12a. At present very few routes are tapped below 5.9. | Helmet is advisory (some gritty pebbles may exfoliate). | Mosquitoes in early season. | On US Forest Service managed land. No special permits needed. | RC.com |