| Summary |
The Menagerie |
Backcountry wild setting in an extensive fir forest on a south-facing slope. Good roads (paved and gravel) offer reasonable access to the climbing opportunities in this region. |
Most of the pinnacles and spires in the Menagerie are located on a heavily forested south facing slope overlooking the South Santiam River basin east of Sweet Home, Oregon. |
Quick paved road access to the lower trailhead along U.S. Highway 20 near the tiny Upper Soda community. To reach the upper Menagerie trailhead you will travel on 6+ miles of maintained gravel road. |
A 2000' uphill long grunt hike to reach the Rooster Rock group, which is the primary destination for more would-be climbers these days to the Menagerie. If you opt to start at the upper entrance, this entails driving on many miles of gravel road to an upper trailhead, then descend hike down to the other spires and pinnacles (Turkey Monster, Rabbit Ears, etc) found near the upper entrance. Though its feasible to hike all the way from the upper entrance down to the main Rooster Rock group, it seldom is done. |
Basic (on the lower Rooster Rock group) to advanced (on the upper area spires). |
The objectives here are spires and pinnacles of a variety of sizes, which range from 250'+ in height, to shorter pinnacles a mere 80' tall roughly. Some (like Rabbit Ears or Turkey Monster) are very vertical, while some of the popular summits like Rooster Rock are a molded twisted shape offering easy low angle climbs and some steeper challenging routes. |
Basaltic-andesitic rock (basaltic at the Rooster Rock group) of variable quality. The Rooster Rock group offers what most persons consider to be the better quality objectives to rock climb upon. |
From 3500' (lower group of pinnacles) to 3800' (upper group of spires). |
| Details |
The lower Menagerie is best June-October (no falcon nesting closure). The upper Menagerie has a seasonal falcon nesting closure: after the falcon nesting closure has been lifted, which is usually about August 1st (check with local FS office for opening dates). From August through October (and perhaps into November) climbing is feasible at this location. |
The Rooster Rock group is considered to be the better formations to climb upon, and those are composed of reasonably stable basaltic rock. The upper spires in the upper Menagerie area tend to be much riskier climbs on somewhat marginal formed dacitic-rhyolitic rock which is prone to exfoliate in small flakes or chunks. Yet, some formations have been somewhat popular in the recent past (Royal Arch area). |
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Cams, stoppers, and a helmet. Possibly various types of pitons or other gear if you desire better security on certain upper area spires. |
On scattered spires and pinnacles you can find upwards of 70+ routes. There is room for some future new route challenges for those willing to commit the time and energy to climbing here, though most of the common routes have been long conquered. |
A helmet is recommended on most spires and pinnacles due to possible loose debris. |
Mosquitoes during the first part of the summer. |
Falcon nesting habitat closure until approximately August 1st (check with the local FS office) for the upper portion of the Menagerie Wilderness area. |
PRC-NWOR |