Ainsworth Left

Gorge waterfall ice is an elusive creature, yet it is quite comparable to some of the finest ice climbs throughout the upper western states. Though infrequent, Gorge ice does form with a certain degree of regularity. By watching closely for specific weather pattern cycles, ice climbers can attain a reasonable edge of preparedness for its arrival. When extreme winter cold encases the Gorge in a frozen world of cascading ice, vertical ice pillars and ribbon-like ice smears, climbers discover a new dimension amongst the giant rock walls of the Gorge.

One advantage Portland ice climbers enjoy is immediate access to stellar ice (when it forms) in the Gorge via well-traveled highway corridors. The I-84 freeway on the south side of the Columbia River and Washington State Route 14 on the north side provides an efficient conduit for fast access to all the Gorge ice climbs. Hiking approach time to most ice climbs range from one minute to one hour maximum, and this converts to more time climbing on the ice.

The 1970s brought several seasons of intense lengthy cold spells which provided great opportunity for numerous historical ventures onto a vast arena of ice where climbers were able to conquer some of the obvious great Gorge ice classics. Popular Gorge ice routes like Crown Jewel, Bent Screw, Gathering Storm, and Shady Creek are several of the great ice climbs ascended during those early years of Gorge ice exploration.

When ice is lacking in the Gorge you can compliment your ice climbing career with visits to other major areas such as Banks Lake, Leavenworth, Mazama, Colorado, or Canada, and still have time to catch a bit of the ice ‘wave’ as it rolls through the Gorge. A few of the fine quality ice climbs utilized in the Gorge today are: Crown Jewel, Bent Screw, Water Heater, Mist Falls, Benson Ice, Black Dagger, Brave New World, Post Nasal Drip, Ponytail, Ainsworth Left, Tanner Creek Ice, etc.

For Directions and Beta see the Gorge Ice Climbing chapter in the Northwest Oregon Rock guidebook.

Services: Gas station service is available on the south side of the river at: Troutdale, Cascade Locks, Hood River, or The Dalles. On the north side of the river: Camas, Washougal, Stevenson, Bingen, etc.

Amenities: All the major towns and cities (see list above) provide businesses that offer a variety of grocery stores, restaurants, grills, pubs, or fast-food eateries, including motels at the larger cities.

Overnight Lodging: Most locals just drive from home into the Gorge to ice climb for the day. All camping fee areas are closed during the winter months. For overnight lodging needs its best to visit one of the primary cities listed above.

Administrative Agency: Several agencies manage this region: Mt. Hood National Forest, Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, and several Oregon/Washington state agencies (primarily alongside the roads).

Seasonal Factors: Gorge ice is very sporadic, but might occur anytime between about November 20th to February 28th. Strong pineapple express rainy weather patterns reign in this part of the state. Thus, Gorge ice may not form for 1-2-3 even up to 5 years apart. When it strikes, it can last from less than one week to as long as 2 weeks and linger sporadically throughout. So...in many ways its beneficial to be a 'local' in order to capture the moment when the ice forms.

Climbing Precautions: Wearing suitable warm clothes is vital, wearing a helmet is normal. Familiar with leading 'plastic' or 'wet' ice is crucial.

Road access conditions: Interstate 84 paved road access (and old U.S. 30 scenic highway) on the south side of the Gorge, and State Route 14 paved road access on the north side of the Gorge. The roads may be icey or have packed snow, yet on other occasions the roads may be entirely snow free.

Additional Notes: See the Northwest Oregon Rock book for details on ideal ice forming conditions.

Gorge Ice Photo Tour

Ainsworth Left

Ainsworth Left

Horsetail Falls

Black Dagger

Crown Jewel

Waterheater

Brave New World

Tanner Creek

Organic Mist

Organic Mist

Bent Screw

Mist Falls

Mist Falls

At Mist Falls

Mist Falls

Waterpipe

Catch of the Day

Tanner Creek

Cape Horn

Tanner Creek

New World Amphitheater

Hamilton Mtn

Cascade Curtain

Black Dagger

various photo credits: see ice photo credits in NW Oregon Rock.