The popular Horsethief Butte, located near The Dalles, Oregon, offers an ideal respite from the liberal amounts of western Oregon rain. At this site you can often find sunny weather crag climbing alongside the Columbia River shore. For rock climbers this crag offers a tremendous variety of short boulder problems within a series of corridors in the inner portion of the butte. This site offers an effective means to practice and enhance the basic concepts of rock climbing and rappeling. The natural open atmosphere of the inner butte offers easy communication from instructor to climber. The Butte is a prominent feature within the Columbia Hills State Park and is a popular site for climbing as well as hiking. Take a drive and ascend some of the favorites: Entrance Cracks, West Nook, main Inner Corridor (with its various classic aretes, rock faces, and plethora of angular cracks).
Directions:
Directions from Oregon: Turn off I-84 at exit #87 at The Dalles, Oregon and drive north across the Columbia River bridge on U.S. 197 for 3½ miles, then drive east on Washington State 14 for 2¾ miles to Columbia Hills State Park. The Butte is located east of the lake at Mile Post 85. Park in the parking area just east of a small bridge. Hike on the path south to the butte and either enter via the west side trail, or at the ‘Entrance Cracks’ gap in the wall. Camping (closed from Nov. thru March) is available at the developed facility on the west side of the 90-acre Horsethief lake. Climb safely and enjoy your visit.
There is one common book source for information and beta to this climbing site:
1. Northwest Oregon Rock
Services: The nearest gas station is in The Dalles, Oregon.
Amenities: The city of The Dalles has it all, from grocery stores, restaurants, fast-food eateries, and a few evening bars.
Camping and Lodging: Columbia Hills State Park (Horsethief Lake) is a popular fee camping site. Spearfish lake area (just north of the dam) has unimproved camping viability. Lodging is available at The Dalles.
Administrative Agency: There is a daily vehicle parking fee at this site. Stay off the petroglyph sections of wall (signs are posted). Managed by the Washington State Parks system.
Seasonal Factors: Available for rock climbing 12-months of the year, but it is best in the Spring or Fall seasons (when its not too hot, nor too cold). Horsethief Butte is an ideal place to travel to for climbing or bouldering when the westside weather is too limiting.
Climbing Precautions: Most of the climbing routes have been well travelled for many, many years. Some are a bit slick from all the user traffic. Its challenging to set up gear anchors on top of the bluff, so use caution when doing so.
Road access conditions: State Route 14 is paved.
Additional Notes: Ticks and rattlesnakes exist here, so take precautions.