Illumination Rock is a challenging sharp profiled high altitude spire situated high on the SW slopes of Mt. Hood. Illumination Rock is deeply cut by glaciers on all sides yielding a three-sided sharp profiled fin of rock. This unusual rock formation represents some of the most difficult and committing alpine climbing in the entire State, and in recent years I-Rock has become the central scene of a whole new dimension in technically demanding alpine routes in Oregon.

During the summer months after the snow and rime melts off from the pinnacle, a somewhat reasonable ascent can be made on this wind-swept challenging pinnacle. All routes to the summit are 5th class rock climbs. After all of your hard effort to conquer I-Rock you will find that the summit block is a teetering boulder that few climbers will venture to stand upon.

During Oregon’s long winter months, when Mt. Hood is covered in a mantle of ice and snow, Illumination Rock offers the totally honed alpine climber numerous exhilarating rime ice ridges and alpine ice gullies to ascend. This is the core attraction to Illumination Rock and provides quite possibly Oregon’s only all-winter site for difficult rime ice ravine climbing of an extraordinaire degree. This type of steep ice climbing requires exceptional stamina, strength, and commitment, as well as proper equipment in order to succeed.

There is ultimately one common book source with directions and beta to this climbing site:
1. Northwest Oregon Rock

An out-of-print historical old guidebook details a minor bit about this site (primarily historical reference): A Climbing Guide to Oregon, by Nick Dodge (print date 1973).

Services: The nearest gas station is in Government Camp, Oregon.

Amenities: Government Camp has a reasonable selection of grills, pubs, and restaurants to meet most persons needs. Nearest grocery store is in Welches.

Camping: The Trillium Lake campground is a very popular (often booked in advance), highly maintained camping site located about 2 miles east of Government Camp on U.S. Hwy 26. Various lodging facilities exist in Welches (resort), in Sandy, and in Government Camp. Bed & Breakfast arrangements do exist in various locales along the U.S. 26 highway corridor (check the internet). The region has plenty of free roadside camping (on various secondary roads) within 1-5 miles of the site.

Administrative Agency: The Mt Hood Wilderness is managed by the Mt. Hood National Forest, 2955 NW Division Street, Gresham, OR 97030, 503-667-0511

Seasonal Factors: Accessible summer or winter depending on your favorite method of climbing (rotten rock or icy conditions).

Climbing Precautions: See NW Oregon Rock.

Road access conditions: Open year round via Timberline Road.

Photo Tour: East Ridge of South Chamber

East Ridge of South Chamber

Belay end of 2nd pitch

Rotten slab pitch (P4)

Notch belay (P3)

Top of Pitch 3

Pitch 5 (last lead)

Summit ridge

5.6 section pitch (P3)

Rappel below West Gable

Rappel near West Gable

3rd rap below West Gable

Crux pitch